Lido di Venezia: a walk from San Nicolò to Biennale Cinema

Lido di Venezia: Golden Island

A pleasant walk through the northern part of the island, Lido di Venezia, offers an entirely different view of Venice. The route leads from the port through San Nicolò, past monuments, pinewoods, and the sea to the site of the Venice Film Festival. A full-day trip combines history, architecture, nature, and the summer atmosphere that lingers on Lido into the fall.

Lido di Venezia lies approximately one kilometre east of the historic centre of Venice. It is an 11-kilometre-long island, ranging from 30 meters to 1 kilometre wide, which separates the Venetian lagoon from the Adriatic Sea. Venetians fondly call it the “Isola d’Oro” (Golden Island), a nickname reminiscent of the colour of the local sand and the time when Lido became a symbol of Venetian summer life.

About 16,500 residents live on the island, working mainly in the tourism industry. Administratively, Lido belongs to the city of Venice, its shores enclosed by two ports: Porto di San Nicolò in the north and Porto di Malamocco in the south. Thanks to its beaches, historic hotels, and the annual Venice Film Festival, Lido has become synonymous with elegance and summer culture.

San Nicolò: The Green Heart of the Northern Part of Lido di Venezia

San Nicolò is the northernmost part of the island of Lido di Venezia (the seaside part of Venice). It is a quiet area with a rich history, greenery, and a beautiful view of Venice. Here you will find a Benedictine monastery, the Church of San Nicolò, a Jewish cemetery, wooded pinewoods, and access to the island’s coastline.

Unlike the stone Venice, this part feels much more open and natural. Walking along the water, you get views of Venice, the Sant’Elena district, and the islands of La Certosa and, later, Santa Andrea, allowing you to perceive the city from a calmer, almost rural perspective. Although cars do drive on Lido, only those transported here by ferry can. It is not typical busy city traffic. There is a city bus service.

1. Port Santa Maria Elisabetta (S.M.E.)

Our trip begins at the port of Lido di Venezia at the Santa Maria Elisabetta (S.M.E.) station. It is worth noting that in the northern part of the island, from the port to the San Nicolò area and before the beach, there are few places to buy refreshments. Therefore, we recommend getting drinks and snacks at the port or before departure.

The first part of the route is mainly in the open sun and along the coast, so it is helpful to have sunglasses and a hat (you can also add a swimsuit, beach flip-flops, and a towel to your bag). The entire trip can be easily managed on foot. There is also bus transport or a taxi available in case of fatigue or bad weather.

2. San Nicolò Promenade

From the Lido di Venezia station, we head left towards the lagoon.  The first significant building is the Tempio Votivo di Santa Maria Immacolata, a monumental church with a dome standing directly opposite the port. It was built between 1925 and 1935, according to the design of the architect Giuseppe Torrini, as a memorial to the fallen Venetian soldiers of World War I.

The interior features a central layout, marble side altars, and stained-glass windows with Marian themes. In the crypt under the church are stored the remains of soldiers, complemented by memorial plaques with the names of the fallen. The church, which stands at the beginning of the main street, Gran Viale Santa Maria Elisabetta, is a symbol of memory and respect for the victims of wars and one of the most prominent buildings on Lido.

From here begins the promenade along the lagoon, which winds along the water to the north. It is lined with benches, greenery, and low walls, behind which opens one of the most beautiful views of Venice, the Sant’Elena district, and the island of La Certosa. Sant’Elena is the eastern part of Venice, which used to be a separate island but is now connected to the Castello district. It is one of the city’s quietest residential areas, with parks, modernist houses from the 20th century, and few tourists. From the San Nicolò promenade, its greenery, church tower, and the panorama of the surrounding islands are well visible.

The path gradually transitions into a quieter area with villas, gardens, and canals. After a few minutes of walking, the Church of San Nicolò with the adjacent monastery appears, after which the area is named. The church was founded in the 11th century and rebuilt in 1626. Inside, a mosaic floor with Byzantine motifs and Corinthian-style columns have been preserved.

For centuries, it was closely associated with Venice’s maritime traditions. It was here that blessings for ships before sailing and sea-related celebrations took place. The monastery is located in the same area and is not usually open to the public.

3. Sant’Andrea: View of the Fortress

The promenade ends at the northern tip of the island, where Lido narrows and the path leads over a small bridge to a place with a beautiful view across the lagoon to the island of Sant’Andrea.

Island of Sant’Andrea

From the pier at San Nicolò, there is a view of the quiet island of Sant’Andrea, lying between Lido, Certosa, and Vignole. On its shores stands the Forte Sant’Andrea, a Renaissance fortress designed by architect Michele Sanmicheli between 1543 and 1545. Together with the opposite fort of San Nicolò, it once formed an impenetrable gate to the Venetian lagoon. In times of war, a heavy metal chain barrier was stretched between them, preventing enemy ships from entering.

It was here that one of the key moments of the end of the Venetian Republic took place: on April 20, 1797, a crew under the command of Domenico Pizzamano sank the French sloop Liberateur d’Italie. This incident became Napoleon’s pretext to declare war on Venice. Three weeks later, the republic, which had ruled the seas for centuries, capitulated.

Today, Sant’Andrea is an abandoned island – its walls are overgrown with greenery, cannon embrasures are long bricked up, and the stone gate with the Venetian lion of St. Mark, which can be clearly seen from San Nicolò, quietly recalls the glory and fall of a former power. At sunset, its white facade reflects in the lagoon’s surface, creating one of the most impressive scenes.

This section of the path is one of the quietest places on the island. The place invites photography and relaxation on benches with views of the lagoon and the fortress. A few dozen meters further, the path ends. Beyond the sign indicating a military and police area, entry is prohibited. Here, Lido symbolically closes, and the open lagoon begins, separating Venice from the Adriatic Sea. After a short stop and a view tour, the path turns back towards the Giovanni Nicelli airport, from where it continues to the seaside of the island.

4. Giovanni Nicelli Airport

Giovanni Nicelli Airport is the oldest civil airport in Italy, with a history closely linked to Venice and the beginnings of Italian aviation. The first flight over the city took place as early as 1911, when car racer Alessandro Umberto Cagno flew over St. Mark’s Basilica. A few years later, the famous Gabriele D’Annunzio also operated here, commanding an air squadron from this place.

In 1926, the airport was opened for civil operations, and in the 1930s, it was one of the most important in Italy, right after Rome’s Littorio airport. The modern terminal, designed by architect Mario Emmer, was considered the most modern in the country at the time and was adorned with works by the futurist painter Tato.

After the war, the airport was gradually used for civil and sports aviation, and between 1998 and 2007, it underwent a sensitive reconstruction that preserved its original atmosphere and 1930s architecture. Today, it serves as a landing place for private flights, and in 2014, the BBC ranked it among the ten most beautiful airports in the world.

From the airport, the path continues to the western, seaside of the island. In this part, there are smaller campsites and recreational areas that are not open to the public unless you are staying there.  The best way to reach the sea is by the road around the airport, which leads to a publicly accessible beach. Those who want to extend their walk can continue from the airport along the Diga di San Nicolò to the Faro di San Nicolò lighthouse. The route is approximately 2 km in one direction and offers an open view of the Adriatic Sea and the entrance to the Venetian lagoon.

5. Blue Moon Beach: Along the Coast to Hotel Excelsior

The main city beach of the island of Lido di Venezia is called Bluemoon. Its entrance is located at Piazzale Bucintoro 1, about 10–15 minutes walk from the Santa Maria Elisabetta port or about 20–25 minutes from Giovanni Nicelli airport. From here begins a continuous twelve-kilometre stretch of beaches that lines the entire eastern coast of the island, from San Nicolò in the north to Malamocco and Alberoni in the south. In the section near Hotel Excelsior and Palazzo del Cinema, the famous Biennale Cinema is held annually, making this part of Lido a blend of sea air, the film world, and Venetian elegance.

The water here is shallow and clean, and the coast is made of fine sand. Typical here are beach cabins, called capanne, which local families rent for the entire summer. Each has a small terrace, table, chairs, and often a shower, serving as private facilities by the sea. On the beach, there are several bars and smaller restaurants with seating in the shade and a view of the sea. These are pleasant places to have a drink or a light lunch – real little oases of calm.

Those who want can continue walking along the coast, or even into the sea during low tide, towards the centre of the island. Along the way, colourful cabins, huts, and smaller beach bars appear, creating a relaxed, summer atmosphere.

On the horizon, the monumental silhouette of the Hotel Excelsior – a Moorish-style building with turrets, arcades, and ornamental decorations – gradually appears. From the beach, there is a breathtaking view of its sea facade, which is one of the most photographed places on Lido during the film festival. It is a fascinating sight.

6. Venue of the Film Festival

Hotel Excelsior is at the centre of the Venice Film Festival, which takes place annually at the end of August and September as part of the Biennale di Venezia project. The festival is one of the oldest in the world and combines tradition, elegance, and openness to new trends. Nearby are the Palazzo del Cinema and Casino del Lido, two significant buildings that host film screenings and accompanying events. The casino from 1938 is an example of modern classicism and still serves as a representative space for the festival.

In recent years, the festival has expanded to include the Venice Immersive section, dedicated to films and interactive projects in virtual reality (VR). This part takes place on the island of Lazzaretto Vecchio, accessible by a short boat ride from Lido, and represents a new direction in audiovisual creation.

The atmosphere of the festival is elegant and enchanting, precisely in the spirit of Italian style. During these days, the world of film, fashion, and design, which Italy masters with an unsurpassed sense of detail and beauty, meets on the Lido. During the day, there is a relaxed summer atmosphere – tourists and festival-goers move along the promenade in light yet tasteful clothing.

Temperatures at the end of August and the beginning of September are around 27 °C, and in the evening, temperatures are already lower. The ideal choice is comfortable yet elegant summer outfits suitable for both walking and a visit to the city.

The promenade in front of the Palazzo del Cinema comes alive every evening when film premieres and the arrivals of acting delegations take place. On the red carpet at the Palazzo del Cinema, the spotlights shine, and the atmosphere takes on a sparkling charm. Men in tuxedos, women in luxurious gowns. It is a glamorous style, colours, and elegance. While the opening days are the most festive and full of media coverage, the closing evening is dedicated to the awards ceremony and the festival’s close.

7. Return Journey to the Port

From the festival area, the path leads back along the main street, Gran Viale Santa Maria Elisabetta, lined with cafes, restaurants, and shops. From this street, you can turn left to the two most famous hotels on the island. Grand Hotel des Bains, a favourite place for writers and artists of the 20th century, is now closed and awaiting reconstruction that could restore its original splendour.

Closer to the port is the Hotel Ausonia & Hungaria, famous for its Art Nouveau facade made of glazed ceramic mosaics. This part of the route is an ideal place to end the day – in one of the garden cafes, you can sit, have a coffee or dinner, and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of the island.

The journey ends at the Santa Maria Elisabetta port, from where you can return to Venice by vaporetto or back to Punta Sabbioni.

Lido di Venezia Outside the Summer Season

Autumn months are ideal for visiting Lido. Temperatures remain mild, the island is calm, and the views of the water surface in autumn light are among the most beautiful that Venice offers. Vaporettos between Punta Sabbioni and Lido di Venezia run year-round, just with longer intervals.

The Lido S.M.E. port remains easily accessible even in October and November. In autumn, it is no longer possible to experience the atmosphere of the film festival. Still, it is precisely then that the island has its special charm – the promenade is quiet, the beaches are free, and the cafes by the sea remain open at least until October.

Itinerary: San Nicolò and Biennale Cinema

Route length: approximately 8 km (full day)
Recommended time: 1 day
Difficulty: easy walk, mostly flat, in the summer months, half of the route is in direct sunlight.
Ideal period: May – October

Morning

• Lido di Venezia (S.M.E.) — starting point of the route, vaporetto port
• Tempio Votivo di Santa Maria Immacolata – memorial church of World War I fallen, view of the lagoon
• San Nicolò Promenade – benches with views of Sant’Elena and the island of La Certosa
• Chiesa di San Nicolò al Lido and Benedictine monastery (now the seat of the Global Campus of Human Rights)
• Jewish Cemetery – one of the oldest memorial sites in Venice

Noon

• San Nicolò Promontory – view of the Sant’Andrea fortress, a quiet part of the island
• Return to Giovanni Nicelli Airport – the oldest civil airport in Italy
• San Nicolò Beach – relaxation, swimming, light lunch in a beach bar

Afternoon

• Walk along the coast – towards Hotel Excelsior, view of the sea and typical beach huts.
• Palazzo del Cinema and Casino del Lido – venue of the Venice Film Festival (last week of August and first week of September, great to experience in person)
• If you want to see the evening promenade on the red carpet, stay until the evening – the premiere program usually starts around 19:30–20:00.

Evening

• Return journey along Gran Viale Santa Maria Elisabetta – cafes, restaurants, Art Nouveau Hotel Ausonia & Hungaria
• Departure:
  • The last ferry from Lido to Punta Sabbioni is approximately 23:00
  • Last bus from Punta Sabbioni to Lido di Jesolo around 00:00
  • We recommend checking the current timetables of ACTV and ATVO transport companies.

How to Get to Lido di Venezia

The trip begins at the Lido di Venezia port (Santa Maria Elisabetta), which is easily accessible from several directions:

• from Venice (San Zaccaria / San Marco) by vaporetto lines ACTV 1, 5.1 or 6
• from Punta Sabbioni by line ACTV 14 – the journey takes approximately 35–40 minutes
• from Tronchetta or Piazzale Roma, also by ACTV 17 ferry (possibility of car transport)
• In the summer season, boats also head here from Chioggia and Cavallino-Treporti
  
  HERE you can find the vaporetto line according to your location and download the current timetable.

The port is located directly on the main street, Gran Viale Santa Maria Elisabetta, from where a walking route leads towards the San Nicolò area.

What to Bring

For a full-day walking trip around the island of Lido di Venezia, we recommend light, comfortable clothing and footwear suitable for walking and relaxing on the beach. Sandals or flip-flops will come in handy, but the coastal path can be beautifully enjoyed barefoot in the sea. The water here is pleasantly warm and shallow; the sea can be walked along for a long stretch, and the fine sand provides a natural massage. After such a walk, your feet will feel rested and rejuvenated – the perfect end to a summer walk.

Don’t forget to bring enough fluids, as there are few refreshment options between the port and the beach. Also pack sunglasses, a hat, sunscreen, and a small towel or scarf. If you plan to take many photos, a power bank (charging station) will come in handy—the route is long and offers many places worth capturing.

Veneto Info Magazine